The End of the Yarn

There are two places in our work in which we come to the end of the yarn: when we are about to finish a skein in the middle of our work (and need to graft in more yarn to continue), or when we come to the end of our work and need to secure the final stitches.

Because of its bulk, the ends of a ball of ruffle yarn cannot be woven into the work the same way we work in the ends of traditional yarns.

Adding More Yarn

We've come to the end of our yarn

Overlay the old and new yarns
(contrast used to demonstrate technique)

Work the two yarns as one until the old yarn runs out

When adding more yarn, overlap the last three or four loops of the ball you are about to finish with the first three loops of the  new ball. Work the loops of both balls together, the same way you did with the folded-over loops at the start of  your work.

Now working with just the new yarn

How the old and new yarns work into each other
(this would be invisible with the same color yarn)

Finishing Your Work

With a Pulled-Through End (Ribbon Yarns, Worked As Yarn)

As you approach your last several stitches, count out the number of loops you will need to complete those stitches, plus an additional four loops. 

When you get to the end of your work, pull the remaining yarn through the last loop.

Pull to tighten the last stitch and secure the tail.

If the stitch will not tighten (which is typical for ruffle yarns), you will need to use sewing thread to secure the tail to the back of the work.

With a Sewn-In End

As you approach your last several stitches, count out the number of loops you will need to complete those stitches, plus an additional four loops. 

Cut the yarn along its width. 

Fold back the last four loops of the yarn, the same way you did with the first two loops when starting your work.

Work as usual, binding off (knitting) or crocheting your final stitches.

At the end, you should have a single loop of doubled yarn on your hook or needle. 

Take a needle and sewing thread, and sew this loop, either to the first two unworked threads of the yarn's edge, or to the previous two or three stitches of your work.

With a Knotted End (Mesh Yarns Only)

As you approach your last several stitches, count out the number of loops you will need to complete those stitches, plus an additional few loops. 

Cut the yarn along its width. 

Using only the four extra loops, cut the yarn along its length between the second and third threads, or between the highest-number worked thread and the thread beneath it..(If the yarn has many threads, you may want to make a parallel cut several threads down, to end up with two "strings" of about equal bulk, plus an embellished tail.)

At the end of the work, pull the working threads through the loop formed by the last stitch, leaving the cut part of the yarn behind.

Using the pulled-through yarn as one "string", and the remainder as a second "string", tie the two strings together using a square knot.

Trim the trailing ends, (and if appropriate, the embellished tail).

Basic Stitches: Double Crochet

Double Crochet

Double crochet is, in my opinion, the quickest and most effective fabric, or filling, stitch in crochet. It works up more rapidly than single crochet, without the long bars and open spaces of treble crochet, double treble, or bullion stitch.

In ruffle yarns, the longer stitch of double crochet presents a deeper ruffle than single crochet. On the flip side, the longer stitch means a longer length of unruffled "back side" between rows on The Scarf, while reducing the "z-direction" — the thickness of the scarf. It makes for a thinner, more flexible scarf, and in a ribbon yarn, can bring to mind the curls of natural fleece or the evenly-spaced curves of an Elizabethan ruff.

Insert hook through next open loop of yarn.
	Insert hook through next open chain or stitch; wrap next open loop of yarn around hook. Use hook to draw the last thread through the chain or stitch.
Wrap next open loop of yarn around hook. Draw thread through the loop and yarn-over on the hook.
Yarn over once again, and draw through both loops on hook.
Row of Double Crochet (Flamenco by Trendsetter)	Row of Double Crochet (Twist & Twirl by Bernat)
After a few rows of stitches:
Flamenco (Trendsetter) Twist & Twirl (Bernat)	Top to bottom: Flaunt (Loops & Threads) Sashay (Red Heart Boutique) Starbella (Premier Yarns)

Basic Stitches: Single Crochet

Single Crochet

Single crochet creates a dense, thick, shallow ruffle.

Flamenco by Trendsetter Yarns	Insert your hook through the chain top of the previous row or round, or the top of your foundation chain.
Slip the next free loop of the yarn's working edge over the hook.
Draw the thread through the previous-row loop.
	Slip the next free loop of the yarn's working edge over the hook.
Draw the thread through both loops on the hook.

After the first row:
After several rows:
The other side of the work:

Examples

Top to bottom: examples of single crochet in Flaunt (Loops & Threads), Sashay (Red Heart Boutique), and Starbella (Premier Yarns). Note the short yarn height, shallow ruffles, and dense texture.

Starting Work: Crochet

The Foundation Chain

After preparing the yarn, unroll a foot or two so that the working edge is at the top, and the free edge is at the bottom.

Large Net and Ribbon Yarn

Fold over the raw edge between the second and third loops so that the second and first loops exactly overlay the third and fourth loops.

Starbella Flash	Ribbon Yarn (Loops & Threads Flaunt)

Considering only the working edge, the first double-loop from the folded edge is your initial slip knot. Insert the hook into the second double-loop and pull through the first for your first chain. Place a stitch marker through the first chain stitch.

Stitch marker through first chain stitch (lower right)

Continue to chain by inserting the hook through the next open loop of yarn and pulling the thread through the chain loop on the hook.

Small Net Mesh Yarn

Fold over the raw edge 1"-2" (2-5 cm) on a narrow yarn, or 3" (8 cm) on a wider yarn, matching loops on the working edge.

Insert the hook into the working edge about 1/2" (1 cm) from the folded edge.

Considering only the working edge, insert the hook about 1" (2.5 cm) from the loop already on the hook; pull through the loop on your hook for your first chain. Place a stitch marker through the first chain stitch.

Second chain. Notice stitch marker under thumb

Chaining

If you start your work with a chain, continue chaining in this manner until you have as many stitches as your pattern requires. Place a stitch marker through the last chain before starting your first row.

The First Row

The top chain of Flaunt is highlighted in yellow

The top chain of Twist & Twirl is highlighted in green

Looking  at the top of the chain you just completed, you should see what looks like a traditional chain stitch, formed by the working edge. This is the part of the work into which you will insert your hook for the first row of stitches.

Continue to use the next open loop on ribbon and large mesh yarns (or the loop about 1" from the previous yarn-over on small mesh yarns) for yarn-overs, while in all other ways forming your stitches as usual.

Notes

Remember to move up your stitch markers at the beginning and end of each row, or at the beginning of each round.

If for any reason you need to stop your work, remove your hook from the active loop and insert a locking stitch marker in its place.

How to Prepare Ribbon Yarn

Unprepared Ribbon Yarn. Note how the width curls in one direction only.
(Fabuloso by Loops & Threads)

Look for the direction in which the end of the yarn curls. You will want to set the yarn so that the edges are curling upward.

Iron With the Curl Facing Upwards

Set the point of the iron in the center of the channel created by the curl.

After Pressing

As you iron, the curl will flatten out.

Spooled, Ironed Ribbon Yarn
(Flaunt by Loops & Threads)

Roll the flattened ribbon gently over an empty toilet paper roll or something similar.

An Overview of Ruffle Yarns

Not all ruffle yarns are alike.

Premier Yarns Starbella Flash

Red Heart Sashay

At Michaels, I find Scarf Ladies who will only work with Sashay, because it has more interior structure than Starbella. Others will only work with Starbella because its edges are more tightly worked, and it's easier to see the edge of the yarn they're working. Others choose their yarn by the color or colorway, or the embellishment on its edges.

I'm not going to post an exhaustive catalog of different ruffle yarns here: I've already posted them to a Pinterest board. I am going to post a couple of samples so you can see the general types.

Bernat Twist & Twirl

Trendsetter Yarns Flamenco

Yarns such as Sashay and Starbella have two distinct edges: one as thin as the interior mesh, and one which is thicker and may sport metallic thread, chenille or "fur" treatment, or even pompoms.

Yarns such as Twist & Twirl and Flamenco have a mesh structure, but no distinction between "left" or "right" ("up" or "down") edges.

Loops & Threads Flaunt

In addition to edge treatment, these yarns differ by their overall width and by the density of the interior mesh.

A third type of ruffle yarn, sometimes referred to as "ribbon yarn" or "ladder yarn", has a satiny main area similar to a dressmaker's "bound fringe", and a semi-detached yarn similar in width and spacing to that of mesh ruffle yarns. These yarns are good starter yarns for learning how to apply existing knit and crochet techniques to ruffle yarn. Their relative stiff and short "ruffle" area is great for demonstrating the effects of these basic stitches and techniques in a ruffle environment; you will see me referring again and again to ladder yarn samples as I show you these basic techniques. My primary yarn in this category is Loops & Threads Flaunt (Loops & Threads is one of Michaels' store brands); similar yarns include Red Heart Boutique Ribbons, Plymouth Yarns Joy Rainbow and Passion Ice

A fourth type of ruffle yarn is based on a strip of fabric or lace edging, with evenly spaced holes near the edge opposite the fancy edge.

As I describe a technique, I may mention the type of yarn and size of mesh I think would make the effect stand out. This doesn't mean you shouldn't try it on a different ruffle yarn, or a different material altogether! The main purpose of this workbook is to give you design ideas — which means taking my notes and running with them in your own, unique direction. That said, most of the time I will be working with the first and third types of ruffle yarn, as these are the most readily-available from major craft stores and online bulk yarn suppliers.